The year was 1990. The world was about to be introduced to a form of urban dance that had rarely been seen outside of Harlem, thanks to an independent documentary film and a pop music icon. The movie: the award-winning Paris Is Burning. The icon: Madonna. The form: vogue. “Strike a pose, there’s nothing to it: Vogue!” became a global dance anthem, while Paris Is Burning went on to win the 1991 Grand Jury Prize at the Sundance Film Festival. What began as a vibrant form of cultural expression for NYC’s black and Latino gay community became a worldwide sensation. But then, like other underground dance forms that have been “discovered” by the mainstream, vogue faded into pop culture history, remembered most for Madonna’s catchy lyrics. Now, 18 years later, the dance has regained the spotlight on its own terms.
History
Vogue actually dates back to the 1960s, when black and Latino gay men began performing in drag at Harlem ballrooms. Dressed in elaborate costumes, they combined the flamboyant dances of Las Vegas showgirls with pantomime and modeling poses. The dance was originally called Presentation, and then Performance. By the 1970s and into the ’80s, however, the dance had become less about decorative clothing and more about movement and individual style. During this era, vogue became more connected to the street and to the lives of a marginalized community seeking artistic expression through dance. Madonna was likely introduced to the form through her backup dancers, and may have even attended a ball in Harlem.
Structure
In the world of vogue, “houses” represent a collective of dancers who often perform together. Members of each house are known as its “children.” Some of the best-known houses include House of Ninja, House of Mizrahi, House of Xtravaganza, House of LaBeija and House of Aviance, many of which were featured in Paris Is Burning. The members of the house view their collective as a family and often change their last names to show their affiliation.
The houses compete in “balls,” which are dance or “walking” competitions based on a variety of categories. The concept of “realness” is integral to the balls and describes dancers’ incorporation of a theme into their movement, attitude and style. Whether the dancer “walks” as a schoolgirl, fashion model, hip-hop thug or business executive, he or she is able to embody that persona convincingly. “The dancer who can best transform into the theme while maintaining individuality is the winner,” explains Hector Xtravaganza, godfather of the House of Xtravaganza. Dancers who consistently win a variety of balls become Legendary, vogue’s highest honor.
Styles
There are four primary styles of vogue: Old Way, New Way, Vogue Femme and Dramatics. Old Way describes any style that predates 1990 and focuses on graceful movement, transitions between standing and floor positions, and linear hand gestures and poses. New Way (post-1990) incorporates more contortionist movements of the limbs, known as “clicking,” and creates complex illusions with the arms and hands. Vogue Femme is a style that emphasizes an exaggerated femininity and flamboyance. Dramatics describes the acrobatic tricks and stunts often incorporated into the vogue style.
Resurgence
After the media spotlight faded in the early ’90s, vogue transitioned back to its underground roots. The New Way emerged as the hot new style, seen by many as more innovative and acrobatic. The vogue ballroom community gradually expanded throughout the U.S. and into Europe, which strengthened the vitality of the artform. And in 2006, German filmmaker Wolfgang Busch released a documentary film, How Do I Look, chronicling the development of Harlem’s vogue ballroom scene since the release of Paris Is Burning.
Willi Ninja, founder of the House of Ninja, was one of the best-known and respected voguers of his generation. Before his death in 2006, he prophesied that vogue would reach out to the mainstream dance community and gain respect as a serious artform. In an effort to diversify, the House of Ninja now features dancers from all walks of life, including women and straight men from the house dance community. Now under the guidance of Benny Ninja (recently spotted on “America’s Next Top Model” teaching contestants how to pose!), the House of Ninja has brought vogue to the stage. In October 2007, they premiered a choreographed work entitled The East is Red, which is now being considered for an off-Broadway production. The piece, a 45-minute narrative work first shown at NYC’s Dance Theater Workshop, featured voguers as dragons, geishas, masters, students, warlords and more, and it merged urban styles like b-boying and house with vogue.
Voguers are now also competing in mainstream dance competitions, such as House Dance International NYC, which will host its second annual festival in July 2008 and includes a vogue category. (For more: housedancenyc.com) And thanks to YouTube, anyone can have access to vogue’s ballroom subculture, a chance to see a vibrant dance form in its element. So if you’re ready to jump into this blossoming artform, channel your own realness and get fierce with that walk: “You know you can do it. . . Vogue.”
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Feb 15, 2021
Performers in HBO Max's "Legendary" (Barbara Nitke, courtesy HBO Max)
How to Express Yourself Through Vogue Fem—While Honoring the Community That Created It
"Who are you when you're voguing fem?" asks the choreographer and dancer Omari Wiles, father of the House of Oricci and founder of the dance company Les Ballet Afrik. "What energy is shaping your story?" In voguing, personal expression is the goal, and vogue fem one way to achieve it.
This flamboyant dance form has experienced a recent wave of mainstream visibility, thanks to the critically acclaimed TV drama "Pose," the hit HBO Max's competition show "Legendary" and, now, the proliferation of TikTok videos centered on voguing.
<p>But the origins of voguing reach back decades, to the Harlem ballroom scene in the 1970s and '80s (with deeper roots in the 1960s). Communities primarily made up of queer people of color created family units called "houses," which often borrowed names from fashion brands—Gucci, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Saint Laurent and others. Voguing as a performance-competition hybrid developed in imitation of fashion shows and magazines and soon became a core communal feature of the scene.</p><p>Voguing was also an outlet for participants to subvert gender norms and celebrate their gender identities. "Trans women are the people who created those moves by thinking about femininity in performance," says Sydney Baloue, a vogue dancer, ballroom scholar, and a producer and writer on "Legendary." "Everyone else went from there."</p><p>Baloue points to pioneers like Paris Dupree, who created and popularized an early form of voguing, originally called "Pop, Dip and Spin" and now referred to as the "Old Way," which emphasizes clean lines and sharp poses. Ballroom icons like Willi Ninja expanded the form to incorporate more flexibility and gymnastics in what became known as the "New Way." And in the early 1990s, innovators like Ashley Icon and Mystery Dior amplified the theatricality of a feminine style of vogue, including more virtuosic components that inform today's popular voguing style known as vogue fem.</p>
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<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJg4ES51Yts" target="_blank">Vogue fem is composed of five elements</a>, and each adds a distinct dynamic:</p><p><strong>Catwalk:</strong> Imagine a runway. Now walk down it with all the confidence you've got. "My favorite element is catwalk," Wiles says. He arches his back, sits into his hips, walks on the balls of his feet and uses his hands to compel the audience. "You can tell an amazing story and show amazing strength," he says. "For me, catwalk is the language."</p><p><strong>Duckwalk:</strong> The duckwalk is a bouncing shuffle in a squatting position while the hands continue to tap the shoulders. Keep the back upright and arched to maintain balance. Though it can feel a bit awkward at first, duckwalks are an opportunity to bring attitude and personality to your performance with playful or sultry facial expressions.</p><p><strong>Hand performance: </strong>The flurry of arms that twirl like windmills is one of the most defining components of vogue fem. Leiomy Maldonado, one of today's most well-known and celebrated vogue performers, and a judge on "Legendary," has counseled that "the most important thing about hand performance is wrists. You want to have lots of mobility."</p><p><strong>Floor performance:</strong> Voguing is, in many ways, about getting down to the floor and up again in the most seamless and creative ways possible. Once down, floor performance comprises rolls, splayed legs and other inventive leg work to create a swirl of dramatic activity.</p><p><strong>Spins and dips:</strong> One of the most exciting elements of vogue fem is the sudden, one-legged fall. "A lot of people out there have been calling it a 'death drop,'" Maldonado says. "That is a no-no. It's called a 'dip.'" It's also a move that should only be attempted by advanced voguers. If you're new to the form, start with a first-position grand plié, then fold one leg to the ground, lie back on the floor and stretch out the other leg. It's an elegant, safer alternative to the thrilling collapse that Maldonado helped make famous, and which she has called the "period" at the end of a voguing sentence.</p>
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<img lazy-loadable="true" data-runner-src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yNTYzODcxNS9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTYyNzcwOTU0NH0.l1GLmCZYJCcDyUiNmIljGj9iRks_1F_Fjje1yGPgqSo/img.jpg?width=980" id="8ce6f" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="75fea19dcfb11530c90f4196f5dbde21" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" alt="Omari Wiles vogues in front of an audience. He stares the camera down, crouched towards the floor, one arm extended in front of him. He wears black socks, black ripped jeans, and a black leather jacket. His close-cropped afro is dyed teal." data-width="1000" data-height="664" />
Omari Wiles performs (Jérémy Duflot, courtesy Wiles)
<p>Together, the five elements provide the structure of vogue performance, and help create clear categories for evaluation—since voguing is still a form of competition. Each element is both a technique and a tool for personal expression. "We have to interpret those five elements the best we can," Wiles says. "We all look so different doing it."</p><p>Dancers must embrace that difference. "What is it that you personally have to give?" asks Baloue. "That's the basis of ballroom. That's what makes it special – a hyper-expression of individuality that speaks to whatever is unique about you." He points out that these values stem from the fact that "voguing is an improvisational dance, part of Black social dance culture that emphasizes individuality and uniqueness."</p><p>More than just moves, though, voguing's history emphasizes validating the identities of everyone in the ballroom. For dancers learning the form today, that history is vital. "Those wanting to learn this way of speaking need to respect and understand why we move this way—all the insecurities and the limitations that were put on the community that didn't allow us to respect ourselves," Wiles says. "This is the way we were able to have a voice."</p><p>In particular, vogue fem allowed trans women to embody their femininity, though many cis women and cis men now embrace the form as an outlet to express their femininity as well. "Being feminine is the language," Wiles says. "Being flamboyant is what you have to speak for people to understand your story."</p>
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<p>Other styles of vogue allow for the expression of different gender identities. Baloue recently made history as the first trans man to win a vogue competition at the famed Latex Ball, in the category of Old Way performance. In that style, he finds the freedom to ask, "Where can I go in terms of masculinity that's unique to my identity as a trans man?"</p><p>Understanding the history and evolution of vogue means gaining access to more forms of expression. The glossy version of voguing found today in Nike ads, the world of "Pose," under the flashing lights of "Legendary," or even in 10-second homemade clips on TikTok, is just a small taste of a vibrant grassroots community that has been thriving for decades. Voguing is at its most powerful when the dance serves as an entry point to learn more about the culture.</p><p>"You'll never get the real deal," Wiles says of TV and social media versions of voguing. But, he adds, they can "encourage you to get out there and explore and educate yourself. We've given you this sampler—and now we want you to go out and experience it for yourself."</p>
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Feb 25, 2021
by Lee Gumbs, courtesy Lew
Sean Lew's New Film is Bound to Leave You Speechless
If you know Sean Lew (and let's be real—you should), you know that he pours his heart and soul into his craft. Born a star, Lew has danced alongside artists like Sia and Janet Jackson, choreographed for names like Justin Bieber and Meghan Trainor, and performed on two seasons on NBC's "World of Dance."
At only 19, Lew's worn more hats than your average human (or even superhuman), and yet he continues to build upon his long list of natural skills—by adding "producer" into the mix. This time around, he's focused on his own passion project. He produced, wrote, directed, choreographed, edited and even stars in his upcoming film II: An Unspoken Narrative, which also features some of our other fave dancers like Kaycee Rice, Zach Venegas and Bailey Sok, just to name a few.
More than just a dance video, and described as his "life's work put into motion," this experimental film fully encapsulates the past four years of Lew's life, depicting an unspoken narrative expressed through dance. There's no dialogue—everything is up for interpretation. Keep reading to get the inside scoop, and be sure to follow Lew at @seanlew as he continues to influence the world with his endless creative ventures.
<p><strong><em>Dance Spirit</em>: How did the idea for <em>II</em> come to be?</strong></p><p>Sean Lew: It started in 2016, when I came up with the idea of wanting to use dance for another purpose. I wanted to portray a certain message that wasn't the easiest to share, but I didn't want it to turn into a sappy message. So, I felt like dance was the best way to express that.</p><p>I created <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5YgLEyYpx8" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">"Wrong Words"</a> in 2017 and asked my dance partner, Kaycee, to be a part of it. That was actually our first time dancing together under my direction, and when we officially became a duet. I knew then that I wanted this life experience to be a continuation of more videos like that.</p><p><em><strong>DS</strong></em><strong style="">:</strong><strong> What's something you were surprised about in your new role as a director?</strong><br></p><p>SL: The fact that I <em>was</em> directing! Going into this, I didn't tell myself I'm gonna be a producer, director or any of these different roles. I just wanted to be sure that I could make it work.</p><p>The fact that people see me under that title makes me curious about what can make me an even greater director for future projects.</p>
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<p><strong><em>DS</em>: What was it like to work with some of your closest friends on set?</strong></p><p>SL: It's what made the film. Getting to work with them was a dream, because I knew from the moment I first saw them dance they didn't care about anything except just dancing. And when you think like that, you end up inspiring so many people when they watch you. They were so open, and that's what made it so easy.</p><p><strong><em>DS</em>: You've choreographed and danced for a multitude of artists. What was it like to be focused solely on your own passion project?</strong></p><p>SL: It was tough at first. Working behind the scenes, you have the pressure of people thinking that you're doing nothing. This was my first time stepping into a passion project this big, and I did question what I was doing at points—almost giving in to that pressure to keep people entertained. But the project was my priority.</p><p>There were a lot of fights with my parents. A lot of injuries. <em>A lot</em> of tears. It was definitely a journey transitioning from dance jobs to an independent passion project.</p><p><em style=""><strong>DS</strong>:</em><strong> Were there any dance artists that served as inspiration?</strong></p><p>SL: Honestly, the goal of <em>II</em> was to give people the same feeling I got the first time I watched Ian Eastwood's <a href="https://www.datpiff.com/Ian-Eastwood-AdultLessons-mixtape.753076.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>ADULTLESSONS</em></a>, or Keone and Mari's visual book, <a href="https://www.keoneandmari.com/ruth" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><em>Ruth</em></a>.</p><p>They were sharing a part of their life through an art form, which is not an easy thing to do. Experiencing those projects, I wasn't just inspired to dance, but I was inspired to rethink my life.</p>
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<p><strong><em>DS</em>: What's a message you'd give to all of your friends, family and supporters that have helped bring this project to life?</strong></p><p>SL: Well, there's no possible way that I could've <em>ever</em> done it without my family.</p><p>All my friends, crew and fellow dancers, they helped me bring this to life without question, so anyone that played a part is family to me now. I don't even have the right words to explain how much it meant to me and how much of an honor it was for them to even agree to the idea. Honestly, they're all icons to me. "Thank you" is barely enough to everyone who was a part of the project.</p><p>Catch the digital premiere of <em>II: An Unspoken Narrative</em> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_RcXdA6CxPWDApS4avk8nw" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">streaming on YouTube</a> this Friday, February 26, at 7 pm PST.</p>
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Feb 24, 2021
Emily Roman performs her solo, "Weight of Light" (Break the Floor Media Team, courtesy Roman)
Emily Roman is Your January Cover Model Search Editors' Choice Winner
Congratulations to the January Cover Model Search Editors' Choice video winner, and our first 2022 CMS semi-finalist, Emily Roman! Watch her solo below, and be sure to enter the Cover Model Search here.
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